Kathmandu is offensive to the senses. Smokey, noisy and dusty. It is the hub where all the tourists land and get organised to go on their trekking tours to Everest, Annapurna, Pokhara, Upper Mustang and further afield. So it is filled with trekking companies, supply shops and souvenir merchants. While my main purpose of visiting Nepal is for the Habitat for Humanity build the travel logistics meant that I had a day off.
As this is my second visit to Nepal I decided to get out of Kathmandu on a bicycle. With a Himalayan Single Track cycling guide we navigated the hectic Kathmandu traffic to get out of town and into the country side to visit a few temples. The Kathmandu traffic while very chaotic it does seem to work. One of the billboards on the roundabout said “drive to care not to dare” it sort of made sense in this peace loving country. While they do drive on the left and understood rule was to turn right using tight turns. It took some gumption to confront the oncoming traffic but as the sign suggested they all gave way and just let us through.
The climb up to the first temple, was a steady climb at first then some nice downhill and then 2 kilometres of steep uphill. At the beginning of the steep climb I left my gear change a little late and the chain came off the ring and I was too slow getting my shoes out of the cleats and over I went. A little skin off and a couple of minor bruises and I was back up the hill. Steady slowly and with heavy breathing my guide and I finally made it up the hill. A nice hot pot of tea was welcome at the top as Kishor and I sat down for a little rest and a chat.
I think he was a little surprised with my cycling ability but he said that most Australians were good cyclists. He could beat me up the hills no problems but on the flat with my lighter bike with better gears I was out in front although with no idea where I was going so I made a few stops for a photo. Kishor is a nice young man who had a great job; riding every day. He told me his family’s story. His mother can hardly walk due to poor health and safety at her old work environment – she was badly burnt. His dad has a chicken farm, his brother has a flower nursery and his sister is a teacher. He hopes for better governing of Nepal where investment in local industry is supported over other influencing factors being the India and China controlling most of the trade routes in and out of the country. Nepal can only get Diesel/Petrol through India and because of this they have enormous control on what Nepal does. Nepal is the second wealthiest country in terms of water production but China and India takes most of it. Without strong educated leadership this country will continue to languish but Kishor is hopeful that things will get better but he also sees the success of friends that have moved overseas.
Anyway we were here on top of the mountain to see Changu temple, one of the oldest Hindu temples in the world dedicated to Vishnu. Apparently many years ago there was an earthquake while many temples were destroyed this was one of the few that survived. It is wedding season and there were a few well-dressed Nepali men and women walking around very excited. One thing that blows me away about these ancient temples is the artistry and workmanship that goes into them and although this is a poor country with few riches the temples are in extraordinarily good condition.
Next was a lovely long downhill into Bakhtapur village. Riding to care not to dare and of course therefore there were no accidents.
Bakhtapur is a Unesco world Heritage Village, with an enormous Durbar square and many Hindu temples. Very cool and again great masonry and copper work. So much so I am now inspired and I am on the hunt for a big brass bell. I took some great photos here. Of their gods, guards and protectors. The square is one of the largest in the Hindu world. Bakhtapur is also known for its pottery square.
It was awesome seeing all the pots lined up to dry and then being fired in the pit kilns. The whole process seemed very co-operative and amazing given that everything is just left out on the street.
Next stop was Pashupatinath. Another Hindu temple area, where the focal purpose here being funerals by the river. The main temple appeared rich and vast but was off limits for non-Hindu. Next door was a sanctuary for deer, but due to the hot weather the poor deer were hiding under the shade.
Then Kishor said something that was very interesting he said that I made very good use of my time and that we had done more temples than he expected. I said did we have time for lunch and he said because we would need 45 mins to return to Thamel, where the shop was that we would not have much time. So I said that we would then have to make it in 20. He smiled and said ok. We slipped streamed our way back along the crazy roads of Kathmandu and he took me down some short cuts which were more like mountain biking than we had done in the country. Down alleys across ditches beside creeks. We made it back with plenty of time. A slice of pizza and an espresso to finish the afternoon and a day well spent.
Pen Lewin 